Having read my BREEDING PHILOSOPHY, you should now feel comfortable with the health and condition of your new pup. I will send you home with everything you need to make the transition easy and comfortable for both you and puppy. But once home, you are always welcome to phone or e-mail any and all questions.

Included in your “home package” are the following:

PUPPY CARE BOOKLET I have written to answer any questions that may come up along the way.  It covers everything from house temperatures for the puppy, common health problems, stress-induced hypoglycemia and how to recognize it, hazardous plants, vaccinations, worms, expectations for grooming and how to groom, toys, spay/neuter information and timing, feeding, crate training, house training, leash training, and how to discipline your puppy.

WHAT TO DO THE MINUTE YOU GET HOME Have “dog jail” set-up and ready for your pup. I show you this set-up when you come to see the puppies, but I can follow-up later with photos by e-mail.  Home Preparations

Home Preparations A list of all the items you’ll need.

THE TAKE HOME BAG ALSO INCLUDES: food, chewies, toy, litter and a temporary litter box; everything necessary so there is no need to stop along the way to pick up things before going home.  I like the puppy to go straight home, because your visit, the separation from me and the car ride to a new home will be stress enough.  Once home, it is important to put your new pup directly in dog jail, just as you would a newborn coming from the hospital.

A TIMELINE for future puppy shots, the Rabies shot, and spay or neuter. Following this timeline protects the pup against TOO MUCH stress during each visit to the Vet.

Worming dates are on the SHOTS RECORD that shows the current shot status of the pup and the dates for future shots. I highly recommend you locate a “shots clinic” near you.  These clinics are great and you pay ONLY for the shot needed.  Most Vets offer them on a regular basis and many offer them every day during certain hours.

I have researched immunization at length and follow the protocol of Dr. Jean Dodds (California). She has made a life study of immunization in dogs and her findings will likely surprise you. ALL 27 of the University Veterinary schools in the U.S. now follow Dr. Dodds immunization protocol.  This is welcome news and you should print out this protocol and take it with you to your vet should you need reinforcement against possible over vaccination. You may also find information on the website http://www.ezdogpark.com/vaccine.htm

Below are excerpts from Dr. Dodd’s recent publication entitled:

NEW PRINCIPLES OF IMMUNOLOGY

“Dogs and cats immune systems mature fully at 6 months of age.  If a modified live virus vaccine is given after 6 months of age=2 0it produces lifetime immunity for the pet.  If another MLV is given one year later the antibodies from the first vaccine neutralize the antigens of the second vaccine and there is little or no effect.  The titer is not “boosted” nor is more memory cells induced.  Not only are annual boosters for parvo and distemper unnecessary, they subject the pet to potential risks of allergic reactions and immune-mediated hemolytic anemia.  There is no scientific documentation to back up label claims for annual administration of MLV vaccines.

Puppies receive antibodies through their mother’s milk that last for 8-14 weeks.

Puppies should NOT be vaccinated at LESS than 8 weeks.  Maternal immunity will neutralize the vaccine and little protection (0-38%) will be produced. Vaccination at 6 weeks will, however, DELAY the timing of the first highly effective vaccine.

Vaccinations given 2 weeks apart SUPPRESS rather than stimulate the immune system.  A series of vaccination is given starting at 8 weeks and given 3-4 weeks apart up to 16 weeks of age.  Another vaccination given sometime after 6 months of age will (usually at 1 year 4 months) provide LIFETIME IMMUNITY”.

Vet Check: When buying a puppy from me, I talk extensively about my personal guarantees for that pup. Too many buyers have heart breaking stories about the “last” dog and its’ life long health issues. My adults are tested yearly, then the pups are all VET checked before leaving here. This exam covers, heart and lungs, check eyes, ears, and patellas. You then have 3 business days to take your pup to your Vet for a second opinion. If a licensed veterinarian detects any problems not outlined by my Vet and excluding any damage to pup once away from here, it must be described in a clinical report. The buyer must notify the seller within this time period, the buyer is then entitled to an exchange providing the request from the buyer is accompanied by a letter from the examining veterinarian as evidence of the puppy's condition. This is clearly outlined in the purchase contract. 

During the first two weeks your puppy should ONLY be eating the food provided by Domino Toy Poodles.  If and when you decide to change the food, the new food should be gradually introduced with the food provided by us.  The changing of the puppy’s food can cause an upset stomach and diarrhea if not administered properly.

We all love to spoil our dogs with treats but for the first two weeks we strongly advise against providing treats.  When you start to introduce treats, please do this as slowly as possible.  Remember that too many treats cause tummies to be upset…..moderation in all treats is the best idea.

It is normal for a puppy to have 4 or more stools in a day. Sometimes you will see a little blood in the stool if they have been having diarrhea for more than a day or so. This is not life threatening and is fairly normal for puppies. BUT, if your puppy should become lethargic and not be active and playing as normal please call us immediately.